San Francisco Neighborhoods: Chinatown
I’m not sure where I heard it, but I’ve been told that San Francisco’s Chinatown is the largest Chinatown in the world (outside of Asia). I’m not sure if that means geographically or in terms of numbers of residents or businesses in the area, but whichever one of these things it means, I definitely believe that it’s probably true. Extending for many more blocks than the average-sized neighborhood in San Francisco, Chinatown is jam packed with businesses and restaurants that cater to the tastes of both tourists and the people who live in the neighborhood. From the dim sum spots to the inexpensive “anything you need” stores, Chinatown has a bit of something for everyone but is very much a place which meets the specific needs of those who live there.
Where you go to enjoy what Chinatown has to offer depends greatly on who you are and what you are seeking. If the parents have just come in for a visit from the Midwest and they want to check out Chinatown, you’ll want to head to the entry gates of the neighborhood which are located at Grant Ave. and Bush St. You can pick up a cheap disposable camera here and take pictures with the lion statues flanking either side of the ostentatious entryway before wandering from tourist store to tourist store to pick up trinkets.
On the other hand, if you’re a local looking to get a good price on some of your favorite Chinese foods, you’ll want to find the hole-in-the-wall restaurants and the little markets which are there for the tastes of the people who live in the area. This section of Chinatown is located a bit to the west of the tourist area; you’ll be able to tell the difference because the streets will be more packed with people and they’ll be carrying bags of groceries instead of cameras and fanny packs. It’s a great place for inexpensive shopping, especially if you’re open to trying your hand at bargaining, and it’s where you can go to get the Chinese food that is actually Chinese (as opposed to “mall Chinese”).
Chinatown is a part of the city that wakes up early and goes to bed early as well. The streets are bustling at five in the morning with deliveries to stores and people heading to work. But it shuts down after dinner is served and the emptiness of the late night streets of Chinatown can be almost eerie. There are bars here but it can’t be described as having a “nightlife” and is, in my experience anyway, the kind of place that you enjoy during the day and then pass through on your way to elsewhere at night.
What you can expect to find in Chinatown is a cultural experience which is entirely different from that you’ll find anywhere else in the city. Space is different; people are more crowded on top of each other and transportation through the area is difficult to say the least whether you’re trying to walk or to take the frequently-stopping bus. The language you hear around you is punctuated with different languages and multiple accents. The sensory experience is unique to the area. The people who live here are often living in multi-generational households in which history thrives and community remains important. Life is lived differently here – but the differences don’t stop Chinatown from being very much a part of San Francisco – and whether you are local or tourist, you should be sure to experience it while you are here.
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